花蓮・石梯坪|找一片療癒海景——緩慢石梯坪、海桐小屋心得體驗
- 作者:Putting
- 發佈時間:OCT 14, 2022
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豐濱鄉位於花蓮縣靠海最南端,沿著台 11 線濱海公路的蔚藍前行,終點駛進雪白一片的石梯坪單面山,「緩慢石梯坪」民宿正位於這片世界級景觀裡,並與之相融為毫不違和的一幅畫。
住過緩慢品牌位於北部深山的「緩慢金瓜石」,這次跟著悠然的步調來到東部海岸,從山到海、從綠到藍,不變的是帶入週遭環境與在地文化的各種驚喜、以及每個小細節裡屬於緩慢的體貼溫度,選香儀式、原民藝術、山海慢食、九宮格朝食⋯⋯每次住緩慢,都覺得靈魂充飽了電。
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住進緩慢石梯坪,如魚兒般自由自在,欣賞原住民文化之美
緩慢石梯坪規劃有房客專用的停車位,若是駕駛電動車也有充電樁可以使用,非常便民。
推開大門迎接我們的是一面「魚牆」,象徵著民宿正前方的那片太平洋,黑潮裡頭蘊藏著豐富的漁獲,希望所有到訪的旅客也能在此得到人生的豐收。
右手邊是享用下午茶、早晚餐的餐廳,餐廳旁有一個小小的空間,正展出「光之器」,透過藤編、植物染等傳統染織工法,源自部落古老工藝的獨特作品;左手邊則是琴房休憩區,這裡是讓風塵僕僕遠道而來的旅客,歇歇腳喘口氣的空間,目前在琴房展覽是《身土慢活・12 種石梯坪的緩慢生活》,牆上展示著複合媒材演繹的原住民文化特色,像是檳榔種子、香蕉絲、林投葉、漁網、稻穀、情人袋⋯⋯每幅作品旁都有小字卡說明相關故事,非常值得一看。
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入住儀式:選香、品茶點、挑門牌
來到緩慢就要記得:「不急。」不急著 check in、不急著進房間、不急著遊覽觀光,管家帶領我們到鋼琴休憩區的沙發坐下,端上一盤擺了三顆石頭的「料理」讓我們聞香,盤子上面寫著「慢下來,森呼吸。」從中選一個我們喜歡的味道,走進房間就可以聞到這股香味,讓你身心都輕鬆舒服了起來,這是讓你放慢速度、打開感官的第一步「嗅覺」。
接下來我們來到餐廳,管家送來了一人一盤的茶點,這是第二步「味覺」,木耳露、香草蛋糕、馬告手工餅乾、水果,還有咖啡、冰茶、檸檬汁三種飲料可以選擇,大面開窗的空間,讓午後斜斜照進來的陽光,把心烘得暖暖的。
此時,小管家再度出場,拿出三塊門牌讓我們挑選,並仔細說明每塊門牌的故事,上頭分別有三塊風土礫:尋境(海蝕地形)、吟月(月光海)和崇海(漁網),象徵著這塊土地的風土民情與特色,我想這是第三步「視覺」吧!
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二樓書房——為花蓮選書,靜下心閱讀
緩慢石梯坪非常適合帶長輩來度假,居然還有內建電梯,實在是太驚喜了!而在整間民宿的牆上,都可以看到由在地藝術家創作的作品,旅英的阿美族藝術家「優席夫」使用非常鮮豔大膽的色彩,讓人感受到一股熱情奔放。
二樓的公共空間規劃為書房,管家跟我們介紹道,這裡的書是由花蓮的「一本書店」所選,並根據不同的主題擺放,有老花蓮、月光海、以及跟自己內心對話的各種旅程⋯⋯我私心非常愛這個書房,尤其是靜心閱讀時能感受到的光影變化,那幅美景會讓人一不小心就忘記了時間。
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三樓餐廚——誠實商店的冰淇淋和啤酒
電梯向上,來到三樓,這裡除了有交誼廳之外,就是一張溫馨的餐桌和設備齊全的廚房,飲水機、微波爐、烤箱、冰箱,並備有各種飲料和特色啤酒,以及薰衣草森林出的冰淇淋,這可是誠實商店,取用記得登記和付費!
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用輕柔音樂和自選香氛迎接——溫馨舒適的無敵海景房
我們這次入住的是海景四人房,超大陽台是一走進房間最吸睛的部份,而且離海邊超級近,除了視覺的享受,傳進耳裡的是溫柔的風潮音樂,這是緩慢民宿的特色,有時候房間裡沒有電視、有時候電視沒有頻道,僅供館內 DVD 觀賞,CD 音響是這個年代少見的古董產品,聽膩了原本放在房裡的音樂,也可以到書房挑選其他 CD,沒有新聞報導或綜藝節目,為的就是遠離那些紛紛擾擾,給你遺世獨立的清幽;而緩慢石梯坪更進一步,用充滿整個空間的香氛,打開你的五感體驗,把這趟旅程的美好用身體牢牢記住了。
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別館「海桐小屋」,住進童話森林裡的小木屋
距離緩慢石梯坪本館不遠處,有一幢森林小屋,非常適合包棟團遊,客廳、廚房、餐廳,房型則有兩間四人房和一間雙人房,最讓我印象深刻的,就是一進門的那條走廊,大面落地窗框住外頭的森林,穿過葉間的光斑灑落在木質地面,超級舒服!下次可以帶全家大小一起去住。
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無菜單晚餐「山海慢食」,舌尖上的部落巡禮
來到我最期待的環節了!管家說菜!緩慢旅宿提供住客免費的下午茶和早餐,而晚餐則是需要加購,住客享有優惠,也有不少人是專程為了這餐來的吧我想。
結合在地特色,從食材、文化、風景,都是料理的故事,享用美食之餘還可以長知識,划算!
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潮間海菜
底層鋪的是蜈蚣海藻,上面放的那片豬肉可有故事了,在阿美族語裡稱為「席烙」,意為醃漬的食物,在部落裡是用來招待客人或是慶典時才會拿出來的美食,口味較重,適合搭配糯米飯或其他食材,這道搭配海菜就相當開胃。
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最恩愛的魚「鬼頭刀」
接下來管家拿出了教具(?
原來這道料理是鬼頭刀香煎魚排搭配野菜,鬼頭刀公的有凸起的額頭、母的則無,所以很好分辨,因為總是成雙成對、一公一母的出現,又稱夫妻魚,據說若是捕到公的鬼頭刀,母的鬼頭刀會在附近徘徊不肯離去,真是愛相隨啊!
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海鮮湯
這碗海鮮湯裡有龍膽石斑、白蝦和九孔,用這些食材來描繪出這塊土地的歷史演進,原來過去沿海一帶曾有許多九孔養殖場,但後來九孔養殖業逐漸沒落,所以改養白蝦,還撒上了刺蔥去腥,多了一層野生的香味。
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馬告豬膀腿
以瘦肉為主的部位,避開油膩的肥肉,更適合長輩食用(或是像我一樣牙齒不太好的),而且滷得相當入味,用筷子輕輕一撥的就骨肉分離,底下是莧菜,旁邊以鳳梨醬點綴,黑色的顆粒是馬告,酸酸甜甜帶點馬告香氣,口味很清爽、有夏天的味道。
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時令飛魚+吉拿富
接下來這道是很有原住民風格的料理,魚的品種是石狗公,肉質非常鮮美,加入去腥的刺蔥葉;旁邊則是吉拿富,這是用糯米、白米、小米包著肉,類似粽子的料理,外面包覆著可食用的甲酸漿葉和不可食用的巴吉魯葉,以前也吃過吉拿富,不過每個族群每個地區的口感和味道都不太一樣,真是相當有趣呢!
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樂活汆菜,自己的菜自己燙!
檯面上擺放了三種野菜:皇宮菜、莧菜、地瓜葉,自取網勺和長筷,想吃多少份量、口味鹹淡自己決定,放進昆布湯裡 30 秒左右即可起鍋,再加入醬料和主廚特製的肉燥,管家特別介紹了他們選用的醬油,是花蓮歷史悠久的古法釀製品牌「新味醬油」,不會死鹹,拌菜剛好。
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駐店之寶「九宮格朝食」,一早就活力滿滿
隔天早上又是另一個我很期待的「九宮格朝食」了,除了我本來就很愛的緩慢特製鮮海苔醬,還有旗魚鬆、炒金針、野菜炒蛋、飛魚卵香腸、秋刀魚、羅山豆腐、芝麻醬過貓、小楊桃菜,小楊桃倒是我沒吃過的品種,據說是長得像楊桃,吃起來脆脆的野菜,加了紅藜麥的稀飯和野菜湯是自由取用,另外還附有花蓮周家蒸餃的公正包子,這餐吃下來實在是,飽到不行、幸福滿滿!
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特別感謝:緩慢・石梯坪
延伸閱讀:
每扇窗都是幅太平洋風景:「緩慢尋路.石梯灣118」,花蓮石梯坪的特色設計民宿+藝術空間
花蓮豐濱6 大美景:絕美觀景台、怪奇石梯坪,花東海岸線半日遊走透透!
花蓮豐濱特色無菜單料理餐廳「尬金包廚房」:煙燻飛魚、飛魚卵香腸、獨特風味尬金包,還有更多!
去花蓮最舒服的方式:台鐵EMU 3000 新自強號商務艙「騰雲座艙」乘坐心得